Calcutta — Where petals spread fragrance and food brings people together
Flowers, food, oldest metro and…. the yellow taxi
Nomoshkaar Kolkata!
My Air India Express flight (Reg: VT-JPR) from Hyderabad to Kolkata left around 10:40 P.M. on 16th. January 2025 and landed around 00:35 hrs. on the 17th January. Soon after collecting bags, I made my way to my hostel. Trust me, I was already tired by the time I arrived.
Got up around 7:40A.M., brushed teeth, and sipped the much-needed chaai.
The initial impression
Chalo bhai, let’s start!
My first day in Kolkata, ‘The City of Joy’ had just begun, with energy brewing inside. Victoria Memorial and the Writers Building were on my to-do list. Just these two attractions for the day, as it involved a lot of walking, plus I was navigating streets with ease, thanks to Google Maps and few important landmarks that I had noted earlier, and relishing Puchkas (brother of Paani Puri) at a decent corner.
18th. January 2025, a bright and chilly Friday morning, time is 8 A.M., and the narrow streets at Mullick Ghat are already warming up with the hustle and bustle of the flower traders as I make my way by crowded, narrow, and dense streets of this renowned flower market.
If you want some excellent shots from your DSLR camera or from your smartphone, then be sure to reach this place as early as possible, and it’s only then you will be able to do justice.
To reach this place, I boarded the metro from Karunamoyee Station (as my hostel was situated near Bidhaan Nagar, Salt Lake Sector-2) and alighted at Sealdah, and from there travelled in a sharing auto towards Bara Bazar.
I started realising that whatever I saw on social media platforms was indeed true. Those traditional, grand, ancient buildings, which once embodied heritage and story, were now lying vacant, surrounded by modern architecture, people’s love for sweets, chatter etc. unfolded right in front of me. I would like to add that Kolkata has a charm, that gets on you slowly, and also you have to make an attempt to feel that rhythm.
Now that the streets seemed to be empty without trams — and all that could be seen was tracks with an overhead maze of electric cables. I still made peace with the same. No complaints.
While on one hand trams were gone, on the other hand I still had a chance to come face to face with the iconic Yellow Taxi (the Ambassador car), with a dark blue horizontal band running from the tail light to the front end of the car, wearing the hilarious ‘No Refusal’ sticker slapped on the doors. Every time I see this slogan, I just cannot hold my laughter.
Now I can proudly say, “Welcome to the famous flower market of Kolkata” (or erstwhile Calcutta), where workers are occupied and every second is precious; no stone is left unturned in gaining customers trust. I was amazed by hawkers and vendors screaming in Bengali, asking me to visit their flower shop, to which I responded politely. After all, petals mean money.
From fresh roses to the vibrant array of marigolds, this busy market is brimming with heaps of fresh stock as if this will take eternity to wind up, thus charging the air all around. As the morning transitions into noon, this place is already empty, and all that is left are the remnants.
Soon, my stomach was sending signals that it was time for some local bites; hence, I headed to the “Sharma Sweets,” immensely recognised for its tasty ‘Luchi-Aaaloo sabzee.’. To those who are wondering what Luchi is, it is similar to puri, but fried in desi ghee (naturally processed butter) or mustard oil and stuffed with some secret aromatic ingredients.
Trust me, words will not do justice. So come and tickle your taste buds, people. You have to visit the city to get that enchanting firsthand experience.
Well, I was not done. My dream spot: Howrah Bridge (known as Rabindra Setu )and the Princeps Ghat soon became a reality. These giant marvels of architecture will keep you awestruck. Though photography is prohibited on Howrah Bridge, one can click pictures from Mullick Ghat or from the Howrah Railway Station side, which is at a stone’s throw distance.
Want to feel the tranquil air around you? Then, the ferry ride is the best way to experience the joy. Places like Kumartoli and Shova Bazar can be accessed by ferries. You can book ferry tickets just opposite the Howrah Junction, and make sure that you reach in advance to avoid missing your ride.
I just looked up and said to myself, ‘What a gigantic cantilever bridge it is, damn.’
[TIP! The best spot to take pictures of the Princeps Monument happens to be the Princeps Ghat railway station. Sunset is the best time, which gives you some brilliant views.
Fort Williams — another critical landmark is nearby, but I was told that tourists aren’t allowed as it is now a military conclave.
Attractions that I covered
- Kumartoli — popular for clay statues of Goddess Durga/Kaali
- Vivekananda Setu (Bally Bridge) — Provides scenic views by the river ghat for your Instagram, popular with locals.
- Jorasanko Thakur Bari — Grand house of Shri Rabindra Nath Tagore. I definitely recommend this place if you are an art lover.
- Shoba Bazar (Shova Bazar) Shutanatu — An exquisite ancient neighbourhood.
- Dakshineswar temple
- Kaali Ghat temple
- Victoria Memorial
- Writers Building (only external view is allowed)
- China Town
- Belur Math
- New Town
- Tu-142M aircraft museum
Transport, Traffic and Commute
While Kolkata is a bit crowded especially the local buses, you can take the help of locals if you intend to explore hidden streets and areas on foot, and they will be more than happy to help you with directions.
If you are in a hurry, then you can reach one point without hassle using bike taxis (Ola and Rapido are popular). I would not recommend travelling in local buses if you are claustrophobic.
What I noticed was there was traffic signal at short intervals, and it can get pretty chaotic in the evenings. The Maa flyover and the Biswa Bangla Sarani are like arteries, helping for better vehicular movements at all times.
You can take the old metro if you intend to visit Dakshineswar Mandir, exit the Dakshineswar Mandir metro station, take a fleet of stair connecting you with the Rani Rashmoni Skywalk before making your way to the temple’s main gate.
Kolkata has these 3 important railway stations well connected to the rest of India, namely Howrah Junction, Sealdah, and Santragachi.
The Yellow Taxi can be booked exclusively using the ‘Yatri Sathi’ mobile application (launched by the Government of West Bengal). I personally prefer availing myself of the metro service as it is more economical.
Another critical information here is that the east-west metro does not operate on Sundays. So, make your alternate arrangements if you plan to explore the city on weekends originating on this metro route, and additionally, buy a metro card, as it will save you a lot of time during the regular peak hours.
Did you know, in 1984, Calcutta (also the first capital of British India) became the first city in India to feature metro service? Not only has it helped in easing traffic congestion, but also in facilitating a common man. Also, ‘Calcutta’, the anglicized name from the British era, was officially renamed ‘Kolkata’ in 2001, that is a pure reflection of the traditional Bengali culture and history.
Time to head back to Hyderabad :(
I must say these 4 days in Kolkata were splendid, especially for a person like me — who would choose cities like these over Goa and Pattaya? The food, people, and interactions were warm. What was once a rich part of the British rule still emitted those vibes. Maybe I will keep it for the next time.
I got off the taxi, and noted the airport terminal was brightly lit in a tricolour pattern, with strategically positioned Bengali alphabets/scripts on the ceiling from the greatest works of Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore.
My flight was on schedule, i.e., 8:30 P.M., and I ensured I was at the airport much in advance because I had noted the humongous traffic. Trust me, you will thank your stars later! Lol.
..Happy budget travelling
“জীবনের কঠিন অংকগুলো খুব সহজেই সমাধান হয়ে যেতে পারে, একবার শুধু ভ্রমণে বের হয়ে দেখুন।”
— Pramod Sharma, Author